Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
